The Essence Of Revolution – Ressence

Ressence was founded in 2009 by Benoît Mintiens after he came up with a revolutionary idea: a watch doesn’t necessarily need hands. Or rather, it doesn’t need physical, layered hands on top of the dial; Mintiens strongly believed that the classic circular watch face, with pointers from the centre, is still an excellent design that is universally intelligible. His version would keep hand indicators, but integrate them into the dial itself – the whole dial would turn with them. At once overthrowing and staying true to some of watchmaking’s most fundamental traditions, the Belgian brand was called Ressence, a combination of renaissance and essence.

The initial design debuted in the Series One (also called the Type 1001) and immediately turned heads. Collectors marvelled at how wonderfully it captured what they loved most about watches, and yet in many ways it was completely unlike anything anyone had seen before. In fact the watch was so different to what you’re used to when you glance at your wrist, that many early buyers found it difficult to tell the time initially. But adjustment didn’t take long, and reading a Ressence soon became second nature – anyone who’s worn one will tell you that it’s easier and more effortless than any other timepiece.

How is this achieved? Removing the hands is just the first – if most important – part in the ingenious design. The dial acts as the minute hand, making a full revolution once per hour. This itself had never previously been done, but more impressive yet are the sub-dials, for the hour and seconds hands, and any additional complications. These are set into the dial, on the same plane, and themselves revolve in the opposite direction to it, keeping them upright while the main dial turns and their own hands move as normal.

The whole effect, with “orbital” dials within dials, all spinning in myriad directions, is unbelievably smooth and hypnotic. At the same time, the whole aesthetic is clean, clear and minimalist, thanks to the astonishing openness of the design – where others attempt to add depth to their watches, Ressence glories in complete, uniform flatness.

 In 2012, Ressence completed the Type 3, confusingly followed in 2014 by the Type 1. Both watches evolved and perfected the form and function of the original. The Type 3 introduced another radical innovation, by setting the entire dial in an oily liquid that made its rotation even smoother. A layer of titanium contains the oil and the dial, which is operated at a distance by an ingenious system of mini-magnets in the movement. This technique, along with the dark dial and Luminova highlighs of the Type 3, made it appear even more exotic and alien – a single, perfectly formed pebble without hands, crown or bezel.

 Ressence has won numerous awards for its highly original ideas, and remains the centre of much horological attention. Fittingly, the brand maintains a human hand as its logo – a reference not just to its brilliant watch design, but also the outreaching symbol of humanism that characterises the company’s attitude towards its craft.

 John Wallis is a contributor to Watchfinder & Co.’s digital publication The Watch Magazine. Visit thewatchmagazine.com for more on watches, and watchfinder.co.uk to browse a selection of fine pre-owned watches.